Wool silk linen fabric

Wool Silk Linen fabric composed of three key components: wool, silk, and linen, as its name suggests. Despite being crafted by renowned Italian textile firms like Drapers or Caccioppoli for centuries, the remarkable qualities of WSL remain relatively undiscovered in Vietnam.

One of the major benefits of WSL lies in its ability to mitigate the drawbacks of its individual components through their combination. For instance, a shirt crafted from WSL fabric tends to maintain its shape better than pure linen, boasts a more intricate weave than pure wool, and offers a softer, less wrinkled feel compared to cotton due to its silk content.

Moreover, given that linen is one of its components, Wool Silk Linen fabric offers enhanced breathability over pure wool. With a diverse range of colors, weaves, and textures achievable by adjusting the yarn ratio, WSL is frequently employed in crafting vibrantly patterned fabrics. Hence, it’s often the preferred choice for spring-summer jackets.


For years, wool/silk/linen blends have been a preferred choice for summer jackets, although they were only introduced in the UK approximately a decade ago.

Recently, English mills have also begun offering their own variations, sometimes excluding one of the fibers, like silk. Fabrics of this nature are gaining popularity rapidly and are often the go-to option for warm-weather jackets.

Wool silk linen fabric

The aim of today’s guide is to assist in selecting from the various fabric collections, suggesting suitable colors, patterns, and fiber combinations, and then recommending specific swatches. It’s akin to the guides we’ve created for corduroy, linen, and high-twist wool, but distinct from the Cloth Guide, which focuses more on technical aspects and compares all options for specific uses, such as hot weather.


When it comes to color, my suggestions for wool silk linen fabric align closely with the five-jacket capsule, albeit with a preference for shades of brown, green, and warmer greys.

This preference stems from the fact that while smart, dark navy thrives in materials like hopsack during summer, straight greys may appear a tad lackluster. Opting for hues like oatmeal or pale tan, which complement white linen shirts or cream trousers, tends to yield better results.

Wool silk linen fabric

Therefore, my top picks for a summer jacket in this fabric category include brown, dark green, or beige options – exemplified by 98427, 98424, and 98416 respectively, from Harrison’s. (Though technically, they’re wool/linen blends, but we’ll delve into that later.)

While brighter colors can exude summer charm, such as vivid blue or pastel pink, they often fare better in pure linens, which mellow the hue. At the very least, if incorporated, these bolder tones should be kept subtle and pale.

Pattern and texture

Jackets typically benefit from having some texture or pattern, as trousers tend to remain plain and shirts often follow suit. Therefore, the jacket often shoulders the responsibility for visual intrigue, particularly in the absence of a tie and pocket square.

However, it’s important to exercise restraint in this regard. Many Italian fabric collections feature large, bold checks that can be overwhelming, unless you reside in the southern regions of Italy. It’s worth noting that a check pattern tends to make a stronger statement when crafted into a full jacket.

Wool silk linen fabric

Above, I’ve showcased a few examples from Caccioppoli. The first might be too daring for most, while the second embodies the style I favor. The third displays a houndstooth pattern that could be unexpectedly striking at scale. (In hindsight, this jacket was also a bit too bold.)

When in doubt, opting for a touch of textural interest is a safe bet – a quality inherent in wool/silk/linen blends due to the variance in fibers or the natural slubbiness of linen. This characteristic is evident in the solid fabrics below from Huddersfield Fine Worsteds.

Fibre mixes

The showcased examples are from HFW’s Summer Breeze collection, primarily composed of wool and silk with a hint of linen. Consequently, the fabric possesses a heightened sheen, courtesy of the silk, and offers certain advantages in terms of wrinkle resistance and odor control due to the presence of wool. However, it may lack the coolness to the touch typically associated with linen.

Such variations in the fiber mix can significantly impact the fabric’s characteristics, as evident when one component is omitted entirely. For instance, Harrison’s Isca collection comprises a blend of half wool and linen, while Indigo features 80% wool and 20% linen. The latter infuses a hint of linen’s cooling effect into a lightweight wool jacketing, whereas the former leans more towards the tactile qualities of linen, utilizing high-twist wool.

Wool silk linen fabric

Nevertheless, minor fluctuations in the fiber mix, such as 5% or 10%, need not be a cause for concern. Often, factors like weight, yarn thickness, and weave have a more substantial impact – nuances readily discernible when examining the texture and feel of the fabric.

Consider the two examples from Ariston below, for instance. While they exhibit slight variations in the fiber mix, the more significant distinction lies in their texture.

Occasionally, other fibers like bamboo, cashmere, and cotton are incorporated into these blends. I find the addition of cashmere perplexing since it tends to increase the warmth of the fabric, which may not be desirable in summer wear. Bamboo, while intriguing, often takes a back seat in my preference compared to linen or silk.

On the other hand, cotton introduces a distinct element worth exploring. It lends a more matte, casual appearance to the fabric, making it ideal for those seeking a relaxed aesthetic. However, I typically lean towards pure cottons myself.

Mills and bunches

Most Italian mills offer a seasonal jacketing collection that undergoes annual updates. While this brings excitement, it can also be a tad frustrating since garments made from these fabrics often risk being out of stock. Hence, finding something similar rather than identical becomes the norm. However, the guidance provided above should streamline this process.

Among these Italian mills, Caccioppoli typically boasts a wide selection, reliably offering the dark browns, greens, and beiges discussed earlier. For instance, this year, 330150 exemplifies a handsome plain brown, while the herringbone pattern of 330144 adds a touch of elegance. (Personally, I prefer both to those with colorful accents, such as 330134.)

Wool silk linen fabric

Drapers follows a similar pattern with a slightly smaller range. Ariston, on the other hand, tends to offer more experimental options, showcasing brighter colors, larger checks, and a variety of weaves and fibers.

Loro Piana and Solbiati (operating under the same company with different collections) consistently exhibit impeccable taste in my opinion. If I were seeking something distinctive, this is where I’d turn. Whether it’s a pale mint or a yellow herringbone, their designs are usually spot-on, reflecting their investment in design quality.

Unfortunately, Solbiati’s collections are often available online only. Dormeuil and Scabal cater to a more luxurious clientele, with many of their collections featuring superfine wools or silks. However, Dormeuil’s Naturals collection offers some delightful plains and various fiber blends – for example, 862610, a cotton/linen blend, boasts a lovely texture.

Among English mills, Harrison’s and HFW, as discussed earlier, specialize in specific fiber mixes, making them ideal destinations for those seeking a particular blend effect. Similarly, Holland & Sherry’s Oceania collection, predominantly silk-based, excels in lightweight wool suitings for summer wear.

Wool silk linen fabric

Many readers have expressed interest in additional recommendations for fabrics. My intention is to provide more pieces like this one, which offer timeless relevance beyond the transient nature of seasonal articles we’ve previously published.

If you have any other feedback or would like to suggest the next type of material to be covered, please feel free to reach out. In the meantime, I’m considering adding these pieces to the Guide to Cloth page to enhance accessibility.

For further inspiration on colors and patterns, even if they’re not currently available in current collections, you can delve into our archive of past Spring/Summer articles.

Below, you’ll find images of some wool/silk/linen fabrics I’ve encountered over the past 15 years or so. If any catch your eye and you’d like a link to the original piece, just let me know.


With its captivating spring-summer attributes, WSL promises to inject a fresh, sophisticated, and vibrant essence into your brother’s wardrobe with the upcoming blazer or sport coat.

Our WSL fabric line boasts a diverse array of colors, textures, and price points, ensuring there’s something to suit every taste and budget. Invite LANA TAILOR to visit the store to experience and be consulted.”

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